Donovaly: Europe’s Best Kept Skiing Secret
“The temperature in central Europe is unseasonably mild this year,” I was informed by the receptionist when we checked out of the Novotel Budapest around two hours ago. So, as we head toward the Fatra Mountains in the western Carpathians, I’m starting to get a little concerned that there might not be any snow to ski on. We haven’t seen a single flake since we set off.
But as the coach leaves behind the pretty towers and spires of Banska Bystrica, Slovakia’s sixth largest town, we begin to see settled snow on the slopes around us. Then, in what seems like the blink of an eye, we’re surrounded by it. In fact less than half an hour after we hadn’t seen any at all we find ourselves in what looks like Narnia, and one of the first things we see as the Flixbus enters Donovaly is huskies pulling sledges past snow covered pine trees, with miles of sparsely populated slopes behind them.
We’ve clearly stumbled upon one of Europe’s best kept skiing secrets, as far as families and beginners are concerned in any case. To put things into context, this is the week between Christmas and New Year- when even a week in Bulgaria costs well over £500 per person with the main UK operators, before factoring in lift passes and ski rental. Yet we’ve managed to find a modern, central apartment sleeping six people for less than £15pppn. Yes, the transfer from Budapest does take three hours, but most ski resorts have transfers between 2 and 3 hours and you’ll be hard pressed to find a ski holiday with somewhere as interesting as Budapest as an added bonus. Not only that, but instead of doubling back to Budapest after our stay we’ve chosen to return from Krakow, which is also well served by budget airlines, and a three and half hour bus ride from Donovaly.
Indeed this triple city break, including flights, a night in Budapest, four nights in Donovaly and two nights in Krakow is weighing in at only half the price of a 7 night ski holiday to Bulgaria.
I’m also happy to find that the husky rides we spotted as the bus pulled into town only cost €6 per adult, and €4 per child, so Ella and Harrison are able to enjoy a thrilling ride through the forest every day without damaging mum and dad’s finances too much. And, despite the fact that we have a fully equipped kitchen in the apartment, we’re able to eat out most nights, thanks to the fact that a meal for four in the restaurant across from the apartment costs less than £35- with drinks! All of which leaves more money for us all to enjoy Krakow when we have to leave this hidden gem behind.
But back to the skiing. I have to admit that expert skiers and snowboarders are going to find Donovaly limited in range. But we’re not expert skiers, we’re a family with young children, and what Donovaly does offer is plenty of family friendly green and blue runs, with wide uncrowded pistes. The slopes are pretty much perfect for Harrison (aged six when we visited) because he learned the basics in Sweden last year and has enjoyed the odd practice on indoor slopes in the UK. He’s even able to tackle some of the more challenging reds and I’m comfortable with this because again the slopes are uncrowded and safe.
Ella has just turned four when we visit and is happy to stick to the fun park, which is the largest in central Europe and has plenty of interesting obstacles to hone her skills on. There’s also entertainment in the fun park – including party dances, which she loves and skiing mascots. The park is also really close to the ski hire shop, with its cosy café and ridiculously cheap food and drinks. This is handy for us as she seems to feel the cold more than Harrison ever did. So we’re able to warm up while watching Harrison ski to his heart’s content on a smaller slope just to the rear of the café.
There are of course some more challenging red runs, and black runs, but as a family with young children just starting to ski we don’t really need them.
Practicalities
We used Booking.com to find a modern 6 bed apartment in the heart of the resort. This cost just £70 per night over the Christmas period. Rooms with breakfast in the best hotel in town- with excellent spa facilities- can be found for under £100 per night even in peak season.
As with many ski resorts there are a variety of different lift passes on offer, but the pass we found most useful was the 8 hour pass, which gives 8 hours of skiing over any number of days for €55. Three full days, in comparison costs €86 or €68 with a Snow Card.
Patty Ski is at the foot of the main slopes- and with its own fun park for beginners- offer full equipment rental from €18 for one day. Rates decrease for each consecutive day; 7 days for instance costs €80.
Flixbus travel daily between Krakow and Budapest. The midway point (3.5 hours from Krakow and 3 hours from Budapest) is Donovaly, so it’s the ideal place to break the journey at any time of year.
